National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, Baker City, Oregon
History · Walking trails · Views
Painted Hills, Mitchell, Oregon
7 WonderS · National Monument · hiking
We did this 5 day/4 night trip with overnight stops at Emigrant Springs State Heritage Area, Baker City, Prineville and the historic Timberline Lodge.
Great adventures are born of meticulous planning. The most memorable adventures on the other hand are birthed like a phoenix from the ashes of a meticulous plan gone to hell. And the most memorable of all our adventures is our Eastern Oregon road trip from the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center to the Painted Hills.
The morning sky was gray when we started out for the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center from Baker City. It was a day before we planned to visit the Painted Hills. And despite the cooler than average June weather and imminent threat of rain, I was elated. I have been weirdly obsessed with the Oregon Trail ever since I was a kid. I mean who doesn’t remember hoping to be one of the two kids who got to play the Oregon Trail Game off of a floppy disk in the school library during a rained out recess? I even wrote a research paper about women on the Oregon Trail in college. So believe me when I say that I was pretty excited to visit the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center!
Gladly, the Interpretive Center is an enjoyable experience for those not so nerdy about history. The 23,000 square foot museum is just part of a 500 acre site which includes wagon ruts, remnants of the historic Flagstaff Gold Mine, several miles of walking trails and some spectacular views. The life-size exhibits inside the Interpretive Center explore stories of triumph, brutality, hardship and above all the perseverance which shaped Oregon. My boys, aged six and seven, may have been slightly more impressed with the wild mustangs and burrows awaiting adoption from the Bureau of Land Management outside the Interpretive Center. But even so the engaging exhibits were definitely a hit.
We finished our tour of the Interpretive Center in front of the floor to ceiling windows overlooking Flagstaff Hill. Maybe because I felt the pull of my ancestors who had traveled this same piece of land - or maybe because I’d just been cooped up in the car for too long - I suddenly felt convinced that we should walk down to the wagon ruts. My husband took one look at the map, the giant hill that would need to be summited then the look of dread on the faces of our kids. “Um, no thanks,” he said. “My stomach isn’t feeling great. I’ll wait for you up here at the gift shop.”
Not one to be easily deterred from an idea once I get it in my head, I bid my husband farewell, took each kid by the hand and cheerfully promised them ice cream when we got done with our walk. It was only three miles roundtrip – all fully visible from the Interpretive Center perched atop the hill. I had no doubt that this would be an enjoyable, once in a lifetime walk for my boys. Only as we got further down the hill the weather started to warm up. And my boys started to get tired and thirsty. And because it was just a quick little walk I had not thought to bring water. We reached the wagon ruts – and it was truly amazing to see and touch the history that shaped our family and state. But as I looked back up at the Interpretive Center, I realized that my little boys and I had a lot of climbing to do.
I did some quick thinking and called my husband. “Hey,” I said. “The boys are kind of tired. How about if we just meet you on the highway headed out of the Interpreter Center? It looks like there’s a trailhead and some parking there. And I can see a trail that heads over there from here.” My husband agreed and headed for the car. I looked at my boys with a giant smile and all of the enthusiasm I could muster.
“We can do it!” I said. “Just think about the ice cream we’re going to eat after this!” Amazingly that was all it took for them to dig deep and follow me off the paved path onto a trail that appeared to lead up to the highway. Ten minutes later something felt off. Why had the trail which I so clearly saw leading to the highway now seem impassible with overgrown sagebrush? I mean this didn’t feel like a hiking trail. I looked again at where we had come from and where it was we wanted to go. My heart sank. I had obviously made a mistake. “Okay,” I muttered, quietly turning my baffled boys around toward the paved path. “I think this is the Oregon Trail.”
“But Mom,” gasped my ever conscientious seven year-old. “We’re not supposed to hike on the Oregon Trail.”
“I know,” I mumbled, urging my boys to move a little faster. I squinted up at the massive window overlooking us at this very moment, praying to God that a park ranger wasn’t on his way out to scold us for desecrating Oregon History. I called my husband the second we reached the safety of the paved path. He was already waiting at the trailhead parking lot. “Listen,” I started. “That trail isn’t going to work. I’m really sorry but we’ll meet you at the Interpreter Center.”
I could hear him sigh as he hung up the phone. And I clearly saw the “I told you so,” look on his face as he met us with cold bottled water at the Interpretive Center. “I promised them ice cream,” I muttered. “They did really good so we’ve got to find a place.”
Fully rehydrated and on the hunt for ice cream, we settled in for the final stretch of our two hour drive to Clyde Holliday State Recreation Site via Highway 7. A few miles outside the tiny town of Sumpter, we passed Whitney - an abandoned ghost town which seemed to spring up from the sagebrush like the mirage of a bygone era. Then after miles of forest and desert scrub, we found ourselves at the Oxbow Restaurant and Saloon in the historic town of Prairie City. This place one thousand percent looked the part of an old west saloon. Best of all, they had delicious, hand-scooped ice cream! My youngest indulged in the bright blue bubble gum flavor. My oldest – always on the straight and narrow – chose vanilla. Our boys were happy and so were we. A half-hour to go and our driving was done for the night!
As we passed the town of John Day, the gray sky began to dump rain. But I couldn’t bring myself to care. Practically dancing with anticipation in the passenger seat of our car, I told our boys about the awesome teepee we were going to stay in at Clyde Holliday State Recreation Site. There were only two of them in the whole park and I was able to score one! We had slept in cabins and yurts throughout the Oregon State Parks system. But never had we slept in a teepee! It was going to be so cool!
And it would have been cool - with the rain pouring in through the top of the teepee and what not. Sadly for us, by the time we arrived the cement pad was soaked along with the vinyl sleeping pads where we were to lay our sleeping bags for the night. As my husband and I slowly exchanged looks of dread, my six year old in his ignorant bliss bolted toward the bank of the rushing John Day River about ten feet from our teepee. I screamed at him to stop then threw my husband a look that he understood perfectly.
“So,” he said to the grandfatherly park volunteer who had been checking us in. “We weren’t really prepared for the rain – and the river being so close right over there.” The park volunteer was as kind and understanding as we have always known Oregon State Park volunteers to be. After a little chit chat about our options for lodging in this desolate part of Oregon, we were back in the car explaining to our boys that no, we would not be staying in a teepee after all.
My kids were crushed. My husband was stressed. And I was panicking – I mean we were supposed to visit the Painted Hills the next day! I had the whole thing planned! It was one of Oregon’s seven wonders and God only knew when we’d make it out to this part of Oregon again! “We have to stop at the Painted Hills,” I told my husband. “It’s right on the way – just a few miles off the main road.”
“No,” replied my husband flatly. “It’s going to be dark in an hour or two and we don’t even have cell service.”
“But it’s right on the way,” I protested. “We won’t do any hikes or anything. I just want to see it.”
“Where are we going to stay?” he asked, clearly frustrated that I was failing to grasp the gravity of the situation.
“We’ll find a place in Prineville. The guy at the park said there’s a hotel there.”
My husband grew very quiet, the way he always does when I’m sure he is inwardly cursing me. But as we got closer to Mitchell and the turn off for the Painted Hills, he started asking for directions. Grinning from ear to ear, I guided him off Highway 26 and up the 7.7 miles of twisting, only partially paved road. You know who wasn’t grinning – besides my husband? Our six year-old son who is prone to motion sickness. With about two miles to go, his little tummy could hold it no more. I grabbed a barf bag from our well stocked glove box and passed it back to him. After some heartbreaking retching, he passed the bag back to me. I looked at the warm plastic bag full of what had once been bright blue bubble ice cream. My husband threw me a sidelong glance. “Are you sure you want to keep going?” he asked.
I looked back at our son. “What do you think?” I asked him. “There are two more miles. Should we keep going?” He weakly nodded as the color slowly returned to his little pale face. I turned back to my husband and securely knotted the barf bag. “Let’s just do it,” I said. “We’re almost there. It will give him a break anyway when we stop.”
Cold rain began to pour from the sky as we caught our first glimpse of the Painted Hills. Still it was spectacular! From out of the monotonous landscape arose the colorfully striped hills like Lady Gaga walking out of a library. I was breathless. My husband refused to get out of the car. “Make it fast,” he said, eyeing the darkening sky. “I don’t want to be out here at night.”
My boys and I donned our hats and puffy jackets and ran outside to greet the Painted Hills. It was windy, wet and 48 degrees. But we had made it! Through the bitter disappointment of being rained out of our teepee, car sickness, no cell service and no place to stay for the night, we had persevered together to see this magical Oregon Wonder. And in that victorious moment, everything seemed worth it.
Reinvigorated by the fresh air and spectacular natural wonder, my boys and I climbed back into our car. My husband shared none of our joy. Gripping the steering wheel, he descended the winding gravel road back to Highway 26. The sun was all too quickly setting and the steady rain refused to give up. There was still no cell service and we still had no idea where we were going to spend the night. “It’ll be okay,” I tried to reassure him. “Trust me. I went to Prineville once in high school for a Future Farmers of America competition. It was a pretty big town. I’m sure they are going to have a place to stay.”
An hour later we arrived in a dark and rainy Prineville. I flashed my husband a confident smile as he pulled up to the lobby of a rather respectable looking hotel. “See,” I said. “Everything is okay. “I’ll be right back with a room and we can get some dinner.” Feeling the weight of worry lift like a bank of clouds from my shoulders, I walked into the hotel lobby and up to the reception desk. “Hello,” I said. “I’d like to rent a room.”
The receptionist looked at me before offering an apologetic smile. “I’m sorry,” she said. “We are completely booked for the night.”
My jaw must have hit the desk. “Booked?” I stammered. “You don’t have any rooms – I mean none at all?”
“No,” she said. “Everything we have has been booked for an event in town. But you can try our sister hotel down the road to see if they have anything.”
I forced myself to mutter some kind of thank you to the receptionist then made my way back out to our car. “They don’t have any rooms,” I said, pulling the car door shut. I couldn’t bring myself to look at my husband. “She said there’s another hotel down the road that we could try.” It was already nine o’clock. It had been a long day. We were tired and hungry and I had spent months planning this trip to make sure none of this would happen! Eastern Oregon is supposed to be hot and dry. We were supposed to be enjoying s’mores by a campfire followed by an unforgettable night sleeping in a teepee - not homeless in the parking lot of a fully booked hotel! My heart had been set on exploring the John Day Fossil Beds and visiting the Kam Wah Chung State Heritage Site. Now none of that was going to happen!
Trying hard to keep it together I walked into the lobby of the next hotel, the weight of worry like a ton of boulders mere seconds from squashing me. Cautiously I approached the reception desk. “Do you have any rooms available?” I asked.
“Let me check,” said the receptionist, looking at his computer. “Yes, it looks like we do have a room.”
“You do?” I asked, elation filling my being. “That’s great,” I said. “I’ll take it!”
As I walked through the doors of the hotel lobby, I triumphantly waved the room key for my husband to see. “We got a room!” I said, opening the car door with a relieved grin. “We can finally get some dinner and rest for the night.”
My husband smiled for the first time in hours. “That’s great,” he said. “This is way better than sleeping in a teepee anyway.”
And while normally I would’ve felt sad about not camping in Oregon’s great outdoors, that night I was pretty darn happy to be warm, dry and eating McDonald’s while watching HGTV from a fluffy hotel bed. Most of the time my planning pays off. We’ve had plenty of trips where everything goes as expected. But none of those trips were quite as memorable as the time I accidentally took my boys hiking on the Oregon Trail, got rained out of our teepee, held a bag of bright blue bubble gum ice cream vomit for the last 2 miles to the Painted Hills and almost didn’t have a place to stay for the night. And although my husband to this day would tell you it was our very worst trip ever, it has a special place in my heart. It was an Oregon adventure that is all our own.
PLAN YOUR TRIP:
eastern OREGON loop ROAD TRIP ITINERARY with 4 Oregon wonders!
5 days/4 nights
Day 1 - Portland to Emigrant Springs State Heritage Area
233miles/3.5 hours
Leave the city behind for the breathtaking Columbia River Gorge - the first Oregon Wonder you’ll see on this trip. Oregon’s tallest waterfall, Multnomah Falls is 30 minutes east of Portland and is visible from I-84. Tickets are now required during peak season and can be purchased at Recreation.gov. The area around the falls remains scorched by the Eagle Creek Fire in 2017 and some hiking trails may be closed. A beautiful alternative is the nearby Latourell Falls which is the third tallest waterfall in the Gorge. At 2.1 miles and a 643 elevation gain, it is rated as moderate (good for older kids). Not to be missed is the historic Vista House which offers breathtaking views of the Columbia River Gorge.
As the landscape changes from lush greenery to rolling desert hills, keep your eyes out for one of the hundreds of wind turbines dotting the crests of the Gorge. Towering above the ground at a height of 280 feet (that’s more than a 30 story building!), these enormous wind turbines generate about 12% of Oregon’s energy production. You’ll also notice along the Columbia River the Bonneville, Dalles and John Day dams. These beastly, concrete behemoths help Oregon generate almost half of its energy production from hydroelectricity. As you drive the final stretch of today’s road trip into Pendleton, you’ll see one of Oregon’s solar farms off to the side of the highway. As you might have suspected given western Oregon’s rainy reputation, solar energy makes up only about 2% of Oregon’s energy production.
Pendleton offers some great city parks if you have kids. Pioneer Park (400 NW Despain Ave, Pendleton, OR 97801) is a great spot to let kids stretch their legs. Next, consider a stop at the nearby historic Pendleton Mill Store for a tour and a little shopping. For over a hundred years, they have made the iconic woolen Pendleton Blankets that permeates western décor. Granted, these beautiful works of art are not cheap. Even so, you just might find yourself a bargain.
Enjoy dinner in Pendleton then make your way to Emigrant Springs State Heritage Area for the night. To save space in your car, consider renting one of the six rustic cabins.
Day 2 - Emigrant Springs State Heritage Area to Baker City via Joseph, Oregon
208 miles/4 hours
Today you are in for a special treat - the second and one of my favorite Oregon Wonders, the Wallowas! Continue driving east for about 30 miles to La Grande. Stop here for some breakfast then take a walk through the historic downtown. Back in your car, head north up to the quaint town of Joseph. I know you want to stop, but keep going because you’re almost there. Ta-da! Look at that! Beautiful Wallowa Lake is set like a dream at the base of the Wallowas. They call this Oregon Wonder the Oregon Alps. And this morning, you are going to do a little mountain climbing without even breaking a sweat. Head over to the Wallowa Lake Tramway, purchase your tickets and soar like an eagle to the top of Mt. Howard. At 8, 150 feet in elevation, the view is absolutely breathtaking. Take the easy 1 mile Wallowa Lake Tramway Trail to soak in spectacular Oregon Alps.
Wallowa Lake State Park sits right on Wallowa Lake and is one of my favorite places to camp. If you’re able to extend your trip a day or two - this would be the perfect place. The lake offers boating, kayaking, fishing and swimming. You can also make a day trip from here to Hells Canyon Overlook to see the deepest canyon in the US (yup, it’s deeper than the Grand Canyon).
Now if your epic view happens to be obstructed by clouds or wildfire smoke, don’t worry. Chocolate is the perfect antidote to disappointment. And Joseph happens to be home to Arrowhead Chocolates which serve up little bits of heaven that melt gloriously in your mouth. In fact, even if your views were epic, you still can’t miss this place. Joseph itself is special. You will feel it as you walk through the heart of this quaint, historic town. Joseph is especially known for its bronze sculptures which bring the streets to life. If it’s eating time, stop here for a delicious meal.
There are two hours to go until Baker City where you can stay at the historic Geiser Grand Hotel. I am a sucker for historic hotels and there are some pretty cool things to see here. Just expect that it won’t it won’t be modern - because you know, it’s historic. Based on our experience, I recommend calling them to book directly rather than booking through a third party site. Camping options include Catherine Creek State Park which is about 45 minutes north of Baker City and Farewell Bend State Park which is about 45 minutes south of Baker City.
Day 3 - Baker City to Clyde Holliday State Recreation Site
86 miles/1.75 hours
Today you are going to time travel. Start your journey in the mid-1800’s at the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center in Baker City. Learn what it was like to be one of the 400,000 people who walked more than 2,000 miles into the unknown in search of a better life. Allow 2-3 hours to explore the center and it’s outdoor exhibits. And by all means, grab your water bottle and go see the wagon ruts outside!
Now it’s going to get real. You are going to take the Journey Through Time Scenic Byway. I am not making that up. It is really called that. I told you we were going to time travel! Travel south from Baker City to Highway 7 where it all begins. As if time travel didn’t sound magical enough, you will be driving into the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness to discover gold mines, a ghost town, and a thriving 1800’s Chinese community.
Here we will take a break from our time travel to settle in at Clyde Holliday State Recreation Site. This is the only place in the Oregon State Parks system where you can rent a teepee. Teepees sit on a concrete pad and come with vinyl sleeping pads for up to eight people. This was a really great experience for a group of 4th - 6th graders on a summer road trip around Oregon. This was a really bad experience during cold, rainy weather with a 2nd grader who had no fear of the raging John Day River behind the teepee. Choose wisely, my friend. The campground also has 31 electrical sites with water that are first come first served. Prineville is another option for lodging. Cell service is spotty at best through this stretch so best to plan ahead (you know, just in case a major event in town has all of the hotel rooms booked, for example).
Day 4 - Clyde Holliday State Recreation Site to Timberline Lodge
206 miles/4 hours
Today is a day of wonders. That’s right, plural. Today you get to see not one but two Oregon Wonders! The first spectacular wonder of the day is the Painted Hills at John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. Now, let me first say that the John Day Fossil Beds is a huge monument with three separate units plus the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center which I hear is a fossil hunter’s dream (insert frowny face with a rained out teepee emoji here). From what I read about the place, if geology and paleontology are your jam, you can rock out here all day.
Since we only got to see the Painted Hills, I will tell you that they were amazing - even during a cold rain. You are guaranteed to take about a hundred pictures. They are all going to look pretty much the same but still you’ve got to take them. There are five short hiking trails at the Painted Hills Unit as well as a picnic area and vault toilets. The gravel road to the Painted Hills has its twists and turns but is otherwise well maintained.
Now, just when you thought it couldn’t get any grander, you are off to your fourth and final Oregon Wonder for this road trip - Mt. Hood! You have a three hour drive ahead of you so break it up with a stop at the Museum at Warm Springs. This is a great museum celebrating the history, art and culture of the three Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs. But first, see if you can find the door! Maybe we’d been driving too long but it took us a minute. Once inside you will find interactive exhibits and probably the most beautiful beadwork and basket weaving you’ll see anywhere in the world. Plus there are huckleberry treats in the gift shop!
You’re only an hour away from the fourth Oregon Wonder, and by now you’re probably catching glimpses of it off in the distance. Wy’East, as it was named by the Chief of the Multnomah Indians (or maybe by Frederic Homer Balch in a work of fiction in the late 1800’s) is Oregon’s tallest mountain at 11,250 feet. Besides just being breathtakingly beautiful, Mt. Hood is the second most climbed mountain in the world after Mt. Fujiyama in Japan. It offers world-class skiing and the longest skiing and snowboarding season in the country (Olympic athletes train here, you guys!). The area is a mecca for summertime hiking and includes parts of the famous Pacific Crest Trail. Plus there are all kinds of outdoor adventure activities to be had in and around the area. But today, we are going to hang out at the historic Timberline Lodge.
This place is really cool! Built in 1938 with funding from the Works Progress Administration (WPA), this Depression era lodge is as much a work of art as a labor of love. Craftsmanship oozes from every corner of this place. Seriously - it is unbelievable the amount of thought and care that went into building Timberline Lodge. It is just one of those places you just have to see - and eat at, and spend the night at. Even if time or budget doesn’t allow for food or lodging, you should take the self-guided tour. The lodge is open to everyone and receives nearly 2 million visitors a year so don’t worry about imposing.
We like renting the Chalet Rooms which sleep 2-10 people. These simple rooms have bunk beds, sometimes shared bathrooms and are a fraction of the price with full access to the amenities. It is a great place to meet up with family and friends and explore the mountain together. If you have kids, make sure to do the Timberline Lodge scavenger hunt! Ask for details at check-in. It is a great way to learn more about the history and culture of the area - and at the end you get a prize! My kids got some cool retro metal lunch boxes that they were pretty darn proud of.
As you might imagine being right smack in the middle of a national forest, there are also a ton of camping options. Trillium Lake Campground is a great option for families and those who love looking out over a beautiful lake and snow capped mountain. Sites at Trillium Lake and other area campgrounds can be reserved through Recreation.gov.
Whew! It’s been quite a day. No “wonder” you’re tired and blissfully happy. Rest up because tomorrow is the last leg of your journey.
Day 5 - Timberline Lodge to Portland
65 miles/1.5 hours
Today you are headed home. But depending on your bedtime there’s still a lot of adventure to be had! Before saying goodbye to Timberline Lodge, you have got to try the Magic Mile Chairlift. It was only the second passenger chairlift in the world when it was built in 1938 - and the longest chairlift in existence! Don’t worry, it has been replaced a few times since then. The views are fantastic and even in the summertime you can build a snowman!
Then, since we are in the Mt. Hood National Forest, I am going to recommend that you take a hike. One of my favorites is Tom, Dick and Harry Mountain via Mirror Lake Trail. I remember hiking this trail with my dad and sister when I was a kid. Now that I’m a mom, it was really special to hike this trail with my kids and their grandpa. That being said, it’s a 9 mile hike with a 1,709 foot elevation gain and your kids are probably going to need some heavy duty motivation. There are also a few drop offs to watch out for. A great alternative for families with younger children or folks looking for a shorter route is the Mirror Lake Loop Trail. This is basically the same trail minus the climbing a mountain part. Bring lunch to eat at the lake for an unforgettable picnic. The water is very cold here so you’re probably not going to do any swimming, but maybe bring a towel for brave feet.
Dusty, sweaty and feeling amazing, it’s time to get back in your car and continue down the mountain. Our family tradition is to indulge in a really sugary sweet after a hard hike, so by all means keep your eyes peeled for the perfect place to replenish those lost calories!
Now, I am willing to bet that this road trip has been an EPIC Oregon adventure filled with spectacular views, four Oregon Wonders, awesome hikes, great food and even a few thrills. So for our last stop of this amazing Eastern Oregon Road Trip, we are going to Boring, Oregon. That’s right, Boring. Just for kicks you have to get some pictures - like how about at Boring Middle School? Supposedly Disney’s Gravity Falls was inspired by this Oregon town. Boring is also home to the North American Bigfoot Center and is sister cities with Dull, Scotland and Bland, Australia. You can’t make this stuff up!
And there you have it, an epic Eastern Oregon Road Trip! As always, be sure to check local resources for weather, road conditions and COVID-19 related closures when planning your trip. And don’t forget to post your photos to #lifelivedoregonstyle on Instagram. We’ll see you out there!