Lan Su Chinese Garden, Portland, Oregon

Culture · Garden · Portland

In the bustling heart of Portland there grows a secret garden. Hidden behind an entire walled city block, it beckons to you to step through its gate and find yourself in a whole other world. Called the Garden of Awakening Orchids, the Lan Su Chinese Garden is one of my favorite places to visit in Portland. It is truly a place where all people of all ages can find childlike wonder and respite for the soul. Are you ready for a little magic? Let’s go!

Getting there

The Lan Su Chinese Garden is located in the historic Old Town Chinatown neighborhood of Portland. There are several nearby city and private parking lots as well as metered street parking. Now I’m going to be honest with you. I really stink at parallel parking. So my favorite stress-free way of getting to the garden is by taking Portland’s light rail service, MAX. Park & Rides are available throughout the metro area where you can park your car or bike and ride the train in. The garden is just a short walk from the Old Town Chinatown stop on the Blue and Red MAX lines. TriMet Trip Planner is a great tool to plan your route.

Here’s a local tip - check out the cultural pass from your local library (Multnomah, Clackamas, Washington). This is a great way for locals to access a variety of educational and cultural experiences with free admission. As you might expect, there can be some stiff competition for these passes so they are best if you have time to plan ahead or can be flexible with your dates. Still it is a super cool program that offers many different experiences - so be sure to “check it out”.

The Experience

Now the moment we’ve been waiting for. I see you smiling as you step through the gate. I told you this place was magical! Just like that we’ve been transported back 500 years in time to Suzhou, China during the Ming dynasty. There are only eight Chinese Gardens in the entire United States. And this one is really special. The city of Portland worked in close partnership with its sister city, Suzhou, China to bring architects, landscape designers and artisans from Suzhou. In fact, over 70 Suzhou craftsmen lived in Portland for nine months while bringing the garden to life. Over 500 tons of stone and rock were brought in from China. And there are some 500 species of plants growing in the garden, 90% of which are native to China. I have never been to China. But walking through this place makes me feel that I have. Look at the buildings and the stone work and the lotus flowers. It’s breathtaking.

Chinese gardens are known for their use of rocks, water, plants and architecture. Poetry, symbolism and tradition run deep in the design. I mean, if you couldn’t tell from the name “Garden of Awakening Orchids” that this place was going to be poetic, I don’t know what else to say. Poetry exudes from every corner of this place. And unless you are fluent in Chinese, you are totally going to miss it! So be sure to download the audio tour on your phone. There’s even a lost treasure hunt for the kids.

Since we came around lunch time (or mid-morning or evening - I mean anytime of day really), we should eat. And what better way is there to adventure through culture than by eating? So let’s go to the Tea House. There we can indulge in a light meal, sweet and savory snacks and a cup of tea. Let me just say that the tea here is no cup of Lipton. Run by The Tao of Tea, tea drinking at this tea house is an art. A tea demonstration in itself would be worth the trip. There is something extraordinarily special about being at the “Tower of Cosmic Reflections” looking out on the still lake below. I’m not sure if I’ve said it enough yet, but this place is magical.

Now if you’re like me and get absolutely giddy about trying new foods whose names you can’t pronounce, you are going to love this place. And if you are like my son who lives only on cheddar cheese and apples, you are still going to like this place. My advice is to order a few things to share. Other than being my shameless excuse to try as many things as possible, it will allow even the pickiest eaters some options.

After taking in the views and epicurean delights at the tea house, it’s time to adventure through Chinese culture. Now you may not think that a trip to a Ming dynasty era garden would have a lot of appeal for kids. But this place is actually pretty cool. With hands-on exhibits, calligraphy demonstrations, meandering paths to be explored and a lake full of koi, your kids are sure to keep busy.

Lan Su Chinese Garden vs. Portland Japanese Garden

These are two very different and distinct cultural experiences and my advice to visit both. If you are short on time and can only visit one garden, it’s going to be a tough decision. In my experience, the Lan Su Chinese Garden offers a more intimate cultural experience. I especially love the tea house where you can learn about tea, enjoy some delicious Chinese snacks and feel like you have stepped into Ming dynasty era China as you gaze out the window of the tea house. The Lan Su Chinese Garden is also easily accessible off the MAX line.

The Portland Japanese Garden is a cultural gem in its own right. Spread across 5.5 acres, it is said to be one of the most authentic Japanese Gardens outside of Japan. Can I just stop and say how incredibly lucky we are to have these two amazing places in Portland?! Our experience at the Portland Japanese Garden tea house did not feel quite as authentic since we watched the friendly staff microwave our meal. Parking can also be a challenge. One day in summer, we had to turn around and go home because we could not find a single parking space in the whole of Washington Park. That being said, the Portland Japanese Garden is located in Portland’s epic Washington Park! If taking MAX (which I highly recommend), you’ll catch the free Washington Park Shuttle at the Oregon Zoo/World Forestry Center then enjoy the pretty ride past the Hoyt Arboretum, around Washington Park then be dropped off at the entrance of the Portland Japanese Garden. And guess what’s right across the street. The International Rose Test Garden! So this place is a special treat if you’re visiting late spring through summer.

In short, both of these iconic Portland gardens are a fantastic cultural experience and both are worth the visit. If you’re short on time or are looking for a more intimate cultural experience, I would recommend the Lan Su Chinese Garden. If you have a little more time to explore and want to also see the sights of Washington Park, go see the Portland Japanese Garden. You really can’t go wrong here. You are going to have an amazing time no matter which one you choose!

Time to say goodbye

At some point in today’s outing, we will have to say goodbye to this magical place. It will be kind of sad, but don’t worry. There’s a great little gift shop on the way out where you can pick up a tea pot or maybe a panda for the kids. Best of all, now you know about this amazing garden hidden away in Old Town Chinatown.

Take a virtual tour

Can’t wait to see the Lan Su Chinese Garden for yourself? Wet your appetite with this short tour of the garden by the Oregonian.

And there you have it - an unforgettable trip to the Lan Su Chinese Garden. As always, be sure to check local resources for weather, road conditions and COVID-19 related closures when planning your trip. And don’t forget to post your photos to #lifelivedoregonstyle on Instagram. We’ll see you out there!