Crater Lake National Park, Oregon
7 Wonders · Deepest lake in US · Hiking
We combined this 4 day/3 night road trip with Crater Lake National Park making the artsy, Shakespeare infused town of Ashland in Southern Oregon our home base for the first two nights and Crater Lake Lodge for the third night.
I urged my boys up the Wizard Island Trail at Crater Lake National Park. “Come on guys,” I said. “You can do it!”
“Why do we always have to do what you want to do?” complained my ten year-old.
“Yeah,” chimed my nine year-old. “I hate hiking. This is so boring!”
“What?” I gasped. “We are in the middle of America’s deepest lake, hiking up a sleeping volcano! How can this be boring? From now on when you see a picture of this place you can say I climbed that!”
“I don’t care,” grumbled my oldest. “We never get to do what we want to do.”
I sighed as I turned my attention back to the top of the cinder cone. Somewhere about five switchbacks ahead of us was my husband, quietly enjoying the panoramic scenery. “Come on,” I said. “Someday you’re going to thank me for this.”
About fifteen minutes later my husband greeted us at the top with a giant smile on his face. “You guys made it,” he said. I opened my mouth to make some snarky remark but suddenly stopped short. The view was absolutely stunning!
“Wow,” I breathed. “It is beautiful. Look boys, isn’t it gorgeous?”
“Yeah,” muttered my youngest. “When are we going to be done?”
Too thrilled to be bothered, I took out my phone and snapped a thousand photos. “Look!” I said. “There’s a trail down there. Who wants to hike down into the crater with me?” Shockingly, the answer was no one.
“We’ll wait for you up here,” said my husband, grabbing a shady spot under a tree. “Have fun.”
Alone at last – and enjoying every minute of it – I sped down the rocky path to the bottom of the crater. There are two things I have wanted to do ever since I was a kid - hike Wizard Island at Crater Lake National Park and go to the Oregon Caves. And now the mother of two kids of my own, I was determined to make it happen. I had spent a lot of time planning this trip. Our room at Crater Lake Lodge was booked a year in advance. I had set reminders on my phone for the the first day I could book our tour boat tickets for Crater Lake and our ranger guided tour of the Oregon Caves. I was certain this experience was going to be something special – something my boys would never forget. Only after a long drive from Portland to Ashland followed by another day of driving and hiking at the Oregon Caves followed by a mad dash in the morning from Ashland to Crater Lake followed by a run/hike down the Cleetwood Cove Trail followed by half of a four hour lake cruise - my boys were ready to forget the whole thing!
I snapped a selfie of myself at the bottom of the crater then squinted up to the top of the rim where my family was still hanging out by the tree. I’m not going to lie, the hike back up to the rim of the cinder cone was not quite as fun. I might have felt my thighs on fire and my lungs about to breathe their last - but I decided to keep all of that to myself. My boys looked shockingly content when I reached the rim, munching on trail mix in the shade with their dad. I would have made enemies of them for sure had I forced them to hike into the crater. Funny how a little rest, salty M&M’s and a 763 foot descent is enough to make any kid forgive their zealous mom. By the time we reached the rocky shore of Crater Lake they were even smiling again.
With a little time to spare before our tour boat departed, the four of us found the perfect spot to dip our toes in the crystal clear 55 degree water. The park ranger - who was tall, bearded and looked one hundred percent the part of a rugged NPS ranger - was basking in the sun with our fellow tour mates. His knowledge and giftedness at conveying the geology, history and natural beauty of Crater Lake had been impressive. “The water from Crater Lake is so pure,” I then overheard him say, “you can drink water straight from the lake.” My eyes bulged as my head whipped around to look at my husband. He grimaced then nodded toward the ranger who along with several of our tour mates were dipping their water bottles into the lake. My eyes grew wider still. Have they never heard of giardia?!
In refined silence we watched the fools fill their bottles with water from where we were soaking our feet, all the while growing weirdly grew jealous. It would be kind of cool to bring a little bit of Crater Lake home in a bottle. We looked at each other, shrugged then filled two of our empty Nalgene bottles with the cold, crystal clear, possibly giardia contaminated water of Crater Lake. It could make for a cool science experiment I told myself. Surely my nine and ten year old sons would find microbiology as fascinating as I did.
The golden sun hung heavy in the sky as we finished the final hour of our cruise. It was stunning – the sheer rocky cliffs, patches of lush verdant growth emerging from a moonscape, secret waterfalls, the famous Phantom Ship and of course the bluest, purest, deepest water in the entire country. The rugged beauty was not lost on my boys as they peered over the edge of our boat. I was certain of it - somewhere in their tired bodies they could feel that this was special.
As we ended our four hour boat tour, one more hike remained - going UP the Cleetwood Cove Trail. With a 700 foot elevation gain condensed into 1.1 miles, the trail is equivalent to climbing 65 flights of stairs. According to the National Park Service, the bulk of the vast Crater Lake National Park’s search and rescue operations take place on this tiny 1 mile trail. Given my kids’ general unhappiness when climbing Wizard Island, you will understand the dread I felt as I looked up at the thousand switchbacks leading up to the rim. But as if seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, my kids were remarkably cheerful. So was my husband as he led the way up the lung-busting trail. All I could think about as I thirstily trudged behind them was the empty water bottle on one side of my pack and the sloshing water bottle filled with lake water on the other. My thighs burned. My lungs burned. My parched throat burned. “Maybe giardia is not that bad,” I thought.
But no. For the sake of my intestinal health, I resisted. Though I thought I might die of palpitations, I pressed on. And as I watched my kids and husband literally run the last 1/8 of a mile up to the trail head, I fought the urge to sit down and have a good long cry. How on earth did the grandmas and grandpas we passed on the way down ever climb their way back up? Surely they had crawled off into the woods somewhere to make peace with their maker.
As I dragged myself up the final feet to the rim I saw my bubbly boys chasing after each other around my husband. “I thought you were a runner,” he quipped with an amused smile. Just for the record, I am. So be warned, this trail is no joke. Whether it’s the 7,000 foot elevation or just an off day, the Cleetwood Cove Trail may be the hardest 1 mile hike you’ll ever do. It will be worth every step I promise you, but bring plenty of water, plenty of time and a healthy cardiovascular system.
After conquering two iconic Oregon hikes, discovering the geologic wonders of the deepest lake in the US and testing the upper limits of our VO2 max, we were ready to check-in to our room at Crater Lake Lodge. Like many historic lodges in the National Parks system, Crater Lake Lodge is a little overpriced, a little dated in the room décor and lacking some modern amenities like air conditioning and TVs. But for all that it lacks, there is no better place to take in the sweeping views of Crater Lake. The veranda overlooking the lake is the best place to relax after a hard day’s fun. At night the sky is blanketed with millions of stars twinkling at you from far off places. It is magical, even if there is no TV. I mean, who would want to watch TV at Crater Lake?
Well, I guess my boys would if we’re honest. But they didn’t have much time to feel sad about it. About three seconds after their heads hit their pillows they were out. I had really wanted to take them stargazing but even this ambitious mom knows not to mess with her kids’ sleep. Good thing because morning comes early when you leave the windows open to let in the cool night air. Fortunately, the dining room at the Crater Lake Lodge serves hot coffee and breakfast with an invigorating view.
After exploring the grounds of the historic lodge, we bid farewell to our room and set off to explore the 33 mile historic Scenic Rim Drive. For over a hundred years motorists have traveled along the rim, drinking in the spectacular views while trying to keep it between the white and yellow. Fortunately there are 30 overlooks with parking, hiking and picnicking opportunities. We grabbed to-go lunches at the Rim Village Café (including some Crater Lake Soda - which is made in Portland but feels like it should absolutely be enjoyed here) then found our perfect picnic overlook. I’m not going to lie. It was a holiday weekend and there were a lot of people with the same glorious idea. But even so the views were magnificent enough to erase every care about the crowds.
Less carefree on a holiday weekend were Crater Lake’s visitor centers. Luckily for us and quite by accident we stumbled upon the historic Sinnott Memorial Overlook near Crater Lake Lodge. Nestled atop the rim like a secret superhero hideout, this stony fortress has perhaps the most stunning views of the lake. The small interpretive center was just perfect for our kids and a sweet little gift shop was staffed by friendly volunteers. There were just a few other visitors when we arrived in the morning. So if you only visit one visitor center in the park, make sure it’s this one (and let’s just keep this superhero hideout between us)!
As is always the case, time seems never on my side when traveling. And I could not help but feel a little sad as we exited the park through the North Entrance. “It’s hard to believe this place is only a half-day’s drive from home,” mused my husband. “We really ought to come here more.” I couldn’t have agreed more. Despite our kids’ grumbling - and in testament to their gritty fortitude - we had an incredible Southern Oregon adventure. I am sure that they will remember this weekend for the rest of their lives. And every time they do, they will most certainly thank their mom for making them climb Wizard Island.
PLAN YOUR TRIP:
OREGON CAVES AND CRATER LAKE ROAD TRIP ITINERARY
Day 1 - Portland to Ashland
285 miles/4.5 hours
Ashland is just one of those special places that always makes me wish I had just one more day to explore. Set in the foothills of the Siskiyou and Cascade mountain ranges, natural beauty and outdoor adventure abound. But it’s Ashland’s culture and artsy vibe that for me makes this small Oregon town one of a kind. Ashland is perhaps most famous for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival which, trust me, even if you think you’re not a theatre fan you must try a show. There’s just something about watching Shakespeare in an Elizabethan Theatre beneath the stars on a warm summer night that is really special.
For more information about visiting Ashland, check out Travel Ashland and Travel Oregon.
Day 2 - Ashland - Oregon Caves - Ashland
90 miles/2 hours one way
There’s a little backtracking to get from Ashland to the Oregon Caves, so my advice is to start early and enjoy the ride. Once off of 1-5, the drive is rural and beautiful as you meander through Siskiyou forests. To break up the drive, consider stopping in Grant’s Pass for coffee at the first Dutch Bros. in the morning and at Foris Vineyards in Cave Junction in the afternoon. Head back to Ashland for dinner and a show or a relaxing walk around town.
Day 3 - Ashland to Crater Lake National Park
75 miles/1.5 hours
If you’ve booked a Crater Lake Boat Tour (which I highly recommend!) just know that it is going to take a lot longer than you think to drive to Crater Lake, check-in at the park, grab a to-go lunch at the Rim Village Café, drive to Cleetwood Cove Trail, stuff a sandwich in your face, make sure the kids have used the porta potties then run down a 1.1 mile trail to catch your boat. It will be worth it, I promise. But to prevent choking, swearing and mild palpitations give yourself plenty of time.
There are several lodging options within Crater Lake National Park but the historic Crater Lake Lodge is my favorite. The rooms may be lackluster but the view of Crater Lake is priceless. Plan to book your room a year in advance and be aware of seasonal park closures.
Day 4 - Crater Lake to Portland
230 miles/4 hours
Here’s the day you wish you had another day, mourn for all that you haven’t done and seen yet and promise to come back soon. The drive back to Portland is a straight shot once you hit I-5 in Eugene so you can take some time in the morning to drive the historic Scenic Rim Drive. This 33-mile drive boasts 30 overlooks with parking, five picnic areas, hiking and did I mention the views? There are several Visitor Centers in the park where gifts and mementos can be purchased. My favorite is the historic Sinnott Memorial Overlook near Crater Lake Lodge. The view here is stunning and the small interpretive center was just perfect for the kids.
And there you have it - an unforgettable trip to the Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve and Crater Lake National Park. As always, be sure to check local resources for weather, road conditions and COVID-19 related closures when planning your trip. And don’t forget to post your photos to #lifelivedoregonstyle on Instagram. We’ll see you out there!